I have already blogged about my teacher in Islamic studies, "Magnus Berhardsson", a Yale educated Icelander who lived for several years in Syria. I have always been under the impression that he was very anti-Israel, but now I am not as certain anymore. During yesterday's lesson the students continuously attempted to ask him irritating and ignorant questions about palestinians and suicide bombings, and he answered them all in a very respectable way.
The course I am taking is intended for third year or graduate students, and most of the students major in theology, philosophy or anthropology (like myself). What I especially noticed last night, was how unbelievable some of the question directed at the teacher were. I remember one question in particular. It came from a student who appeared to be about 30-35 years old, and seemed like an intelligent invididual. While discussing suicide (homicide) bombings, the student suggested: But the palestinians are of course a nation living in occupation, and they have finished all their weapons.(This he thought gave them a good reason to use the method of suicide bombings).
I was too shocked to say anything. I simply can't understand how anybody can be ignorant enough to reach such a conclusion, and while swimming around in their own ignorance, reach the conclusion that they know enough about it to form an opinion and share it with a class. I wanted to ask him what exactly he thinks palestinians use to shoot at Israelis with, water pistols??
I'd like to point out a link I have on my page. Let there be no doubt. The Arabs have weapons. The fact that this educated, seemingly intelligent guy figured that "palestinians have no more weapons" unfortunately implies that there are many with the same view. The Arabs smuggle weapons, are supplied with weapons from various other muslim nations, Arabs make their own weapons. Some Arabs are a walking weapon. Perhaps he, as well as others enjoying their blissful ignorance, should wake up and smell the coffee.
Well my spirits definitely up today! At last I have received my luggage, which got lost somewhere at Heathrow, and took 3 days to retrieve. I have tremendous trust issues when it comes to, ehrm, other people, so I didn't feel very confident that I would ever see my things again. But I now feel a little bad about how I've practically been stalking the people at the lost & found section at the Keflavik airport. They clearly did their best. It's the Brits who are to blame! :-) (I have nothing against the British as a nation, for the record. Some of my favorite people are British).
I also wrote a letter of complaint to the Israel ministry of tourism for the Scandinavian countries, as well as to the Israeli Police Force, to complain about my encounter with the immigration police. Interestingly enough, they both wrote me back immediately requesting my information. I don't believe that one letter will make a difference, but if they receive many, something might eventually change. I also heard that the police of immigration has made a lot of false arrests in order to fill a quota of illegal immigrants they need to arrest. I am not pleased with the fact that I (or any other innocent tourist spending money and thus strengthening Israel's economy) should be victimized by this ridiculous fact.
Yesterday I went to my first class since I came back from Israel, in a course called "Islam in past, present and future". The teacher actually lives in the United States, and has a PhD from Yale in Islamic Studies. He spent several years living and studying Arabic in Syria, and he is very pro-palestine, but he is a very good teacher, and I do learn a lot from him. (I've taken another of his courses). The students constantly try to ask stupid questions about Israel and palestinians. He gives unbiased answers despite his opinions, which I respect. He does write pro-palestine articles, and give pro-palestine lectures, but he does not mix such material into unrelated study material, despite the fact that the students try to make him. I thought it was interesting that the other day when I was in Israel, I checked my university mail and I saw an e-mail from him to all the students of the course saying "salam alaikuum from Syria". It felt funny. A couple of Icelanders located in the Middle East corresponding, both about to head back to Iceland to pursue academic matters at the University of Iceland.
I suppose I had a substantial shock when I left Israel. Especially when I left the house and walked through the snow in my leather boots, winter jacket, scarf and woolen hat. I still keep having these little experiences, such as.. For a moment I thought I smelled that smell that so uniquely only exists in Israel. The smell you feel as soon as you step off the plane, but disappears as soon as you leave. But my mother is right when she asked: "You should feel grateful, where have you been for the last two weeks?". So true. Despite ups and downs I visited a wonderful place, met some wonderful old friends that I love dearly, also met some terrific newfriends, and best of all, I will be back!
Here are the first photos I have uploaded from Israel. Uploading is such a time consuming process, so I am choosing only a few. I uploaded photos to what I call "The Jerusalem gallery".
Lost luggage, airport security and feeling misplaced in my own home
Back in Iceland. At least I think I am. I haven't actually left the house yet.. I was so tired I felt halfdead when I drove back from the airport during the middle of the night yesterday. I have been a mess today. Instead I just called my mom to Romania (it sure is expensive to call to Romania), telling her how I don't want to be here anymore. My dear mother said: I know honey, I was bored in Iceland as well. But you have to endure one more year.
I didn't have the best trip home. My flight to London was late, causing me to nearly miss the flight to Iceland. What is worse, I lost my luggage. I won't be able to to concentrate on anything until I get that suitcase back. It contains pretty much everything. But the people at the lost luggage section at the airport say it hasn't been found.
Airport security appeared to be bullying me insanely, putting me through a 3,5 hour process, which would have taken longer hadn't I refused to answer any more questions.
First two people approached me and questioned me for an hour. Not too bad compared to normally. It would have taken a lot longer if I had actually told them the truth. I said I only had two friends in Israel, and that I only volunteered in a kibbutz last time I was in Israel. Lies, sure. But I was once questioned for 3 hours about volunteering in the army, so I'd rather save myself the trouble, and just lie.
After that my bags were searched, also normal. But then I was taken into a small room, where every inch of my body was searched with a metal detector (this was a time consuming process). The security guard followed me around everywhere, and took me through special gates. I asked why I was being escorted, and why I was being taken to different places than the other passengers. She only answered "it's just the procedure, don't worry". Then I had big problems with my plane ticket, which took a very long time for the travel agents to fix. The security guard stood there patiently waiting next to me the entire time. Then she walked me to the passport control. The people who were standing in line in front of me had their passports checked quickly. But when it was my turn the woman checking the passport spent a very long time checking it. And just as she was finished, another security guard came long and asked me to step aside with her.
Then she actually, believe it or not, intended to start questioning me all over again, and started asking me all the same questions as the security guards during the first hour had asked me. I got quite irritated, and asked why I was being singled out in this way. She said that perhaps they were looking for somebody else with my name. I said that was impossible. She said OK. Then she took my passport and left me waiting for about 15-20 minutes. After that she returned and intended to continue questioning me. By then the process had taken 3,5 hours already, so I told her that I did not know why I was being treated this way, that I had already been questioned, that every inch of my body had been searched with a metal detector, and that she really wouldn't be able to get anything else out of me that the others hadn't. That there simply was no more, and that I refused to answer any more questions.
She looked confused, and asked: You're not going to answer any more questions?
I said no.
Then she said OK, and again she took my passport and ticket, and left for another 15-20 minutes. After that she came back and asked if I have any Arab friends. (Seriously, the closest I've gotten to knowing Arabs would be bargaining at a market). So I told her I don't know any Arabs, and that there really is nothing suspicious about me! Then took me to passport control, and I was finally off the hook.
I know that the Israeli airport security questions several people, and looks through everyone's luggage, but I have no idea why I have always, every single time traveling, been singled out in this way. Perhaps I will never know.
How bizarre. I am not sure what to say. Tomorrow my 12 day visit will be over, and I will head back to Iceland. Advah (the friend I am staying with) already went to sleep. Earlier this evening I told her what has been on my mind for the past few days, and perhaps ever since I got here. I told her that normally when I go abroad I become fed up with the place after a few weeks and wish to go back to where I came from. But this time it is different. Going back feels wrong. Going back breaks my heart(despite the fact that my stay here has certainly had its ups and downs).
I wish I could stay.
I suppose all I can do is finish packing, take one last walk through the streets of an Israeli town, and quietly wipe my tears while saying what so many have said before me:
"Next year in Jerusalem".
I have been meaning to blog about this for a few days now, but I haven't had the time. Before I begin, I'd like to say that I have added two new links: Gil Ben Mori and An Unsealed Room.
But anyway, like many of you know, I study social & cultural anthropology at the university of Iceland. The University of Iceland is a small university (obviously) with about 10.000 students, fighting for international recognition. It actually provides students with an excellent education, since the university only hires teachers with degrees from the best universities of Europe and the USA, as well and putting students through a ridiculous amount of work (proven beyond any doubt to be more than at other Scandinavian universities). But "The University of Iceland", nevertheless, just doesn't sound all that impressive to an ignorant outsider. Still, due to what experience has taught, students with a degree from the University of Iceland generally have an easy time getting into good universities abroad, since they have almost without exception done well, and all our study material is in English. So it's reliable, eh?
A few days ago I received (online, naturally) the reading material for a course I had intended to participate in next semester called "Anthropology of the Middle East". I became so angry I spent 2 days considering sending the teacher letters of complaint, or even writing the ministry of education, or at least the university board. The Anthropology of the Middle East is supposed to discuss mainly two issues: Iraq, and the Israel-Arab conflict.
Want to see what our "reading material" was?
-Noam Chomsky (The one living person I detest the most)
-Edward Said (The biggest liar the academia has even seen)
-Some Tamimi something (palestinian, I assume)
-Along with some articles from Al Jazeera, and interviews with palestinians, about their "their experience of suicide bombings". (And where are the Israelis?)
-There are also guest lectures from known anti-Israel individuals (hmm, I wonder what they're gonna talk about?).
Doesn't it sound like something is missing? Such as.. Mein kampf, or The Protocols of the Elders of Zion??
I certainly am neglecting my blog these days! But I know that my lovely & intelligent readers cut me slack due to the fact that I am currently busy touring the Holy Land. I believe it is safe to say that things have been more than a little crazy around here. Crazy my standards that is, although perhaps not so crazy Israeli standards. I returned from spending a few days in Jerusalem today. It is the second time during this trip that I go to Jerusalem (my favorite place in the whole wide world), but this was a longer stay. I had organised my time extremely well, and somehow I figured that everything would go according my schedual. But not quite...
Wednesday was lovely. I took a trip to the center of the center of the world! (Aka the Kotel). I took amazing photos, which I will be posting after I return to the Devil's Island (urghh). Thursday however... Well... During the morning I was on my way to see an old friend. I decided that since I would be walking around Jerusalem the entire day, it would be a good idea to take my backpack with me (which I usually don't do). A packpack of course, clearly identifies a person as a tourist. Within 5-10 minutes I was stopped by the "immigration police". They spent a very long time screaming at me, demanding to know what I was doing in Israel, for how long I was in Israel, where I was from. When I said I was from Iceland they got very suspicious and asked "ma ze, ma ze (what is it?)", since the job of an Israeli police doesn't appear to require minimum knowledge of geography. It wasn't until afterwards that I realised how absurd I had been to try to explain to them that I was outraged by their ill mannered behavior, and that I found their questions to be intrusive and offensive. They just pulled some random woman carrying two large shopping bags from the street, asking her to explain to me the exact same thing they had already told me. They were, apparently, searching for illegal workers from Romania. After a long time they finally decided to let me go. I then waited for my friend for half an hour, and he "never showed up". It later turned out that he had infact gotten stuck in traffic and been 40 minutes late, but since I don't have a mobile phone here (a mistake I'm never making again), he wasn't able to contact me to tell me). I called him from my friend's mobile phone during the evening. He didn't sound angry, but he told me three times: I've had my mobile phone on since 7 am... My problem is that I hate making private calls from payphones. I just hate it. I suppose this is what endless years of owning a phone does to you!
But anyway, I decided I'd take a chill pill and go meet up with Jeffrey in Jerusalem. What I didn't know was that Jeffrey had e-mailed me to let me know he couldn't make it, and again, since I don't have a phone... In other words, I thought I had been stood up twice in one day, and I was not pleased at all. I was supposed to go visit Mr & Mrs Treppenwitz for dinner (I like to call them that), which I had been very much looking forward to doing, but since I was feeling tired and frustrated I figured I'd make lousy company, so I cancelled. I very much regret not seeing them, but I will most likely (G-d willing) be moving to Israel next year, so then I'll have time.
After I had gone through this day (a lot more happened today, a lot of lovely little things, and a lot of irritating little things), I walked from the central busstation to Rehov Haneviim, where my friend Rivka lives. I walked slowly and watched the stars above the Jerusalem sky, and thought to myself that I was experiencing a bad day, which just happened to this time be in Jerusalem herself. I had one of those conversations with G-d (that I tend to have, especially when I'm feeling down), about how despite how things sometimes go wrong, I am certain that they will eventually, one way or another, go right, because I'm certain that me being in Jerusalem (which has always felt very right) can't be something that is just meant to go completely bad.
I then went to Rivka's and we had a lovely chat. She told me how everybody has those days in Israel when everything just gets messed up and you get tired and frustrated, and we talked about it. But what can you do but endure it, if it is a thing you can't live without? Israel is a unique place, but it doesn't float it milk and honey like some may imagine. For when it comes down to it, it is a country, with everything that entails.
Shalom everybody! I don't really have much time to blog, since my life is very much based on traveling or hanging out in Israel, eating various kinds of delicious Israeli foods, but I do want to mention a few things. A lot of interesting things have happened since I last blogged. Before I say anything else, I would like to thank those of you who nominated me for best Israel advocacy blog. Thank you so much! Despite the fact that I read Israellycool's (who is hosting the Jewish and Israeli blog Awards) blog ultra orthodox religiously, I had for some reason not bothered looking into the awards much, until somebody pointed it out to me.
But anyway, something very interesting happened to me yesterday. Yesterday, virtual became actual, as I, for the first time ever, met a fellow blogger in real life. I had been fairly certain that Lisa from On the Face is a nice person, but I had not known that she was as charming, intelligent, funny and in every way adorable as she turned out to be.
I got lost in Tel Aviv. And there you have it. Jerusalem is different. It is as if one can sense where you need to go, and somehow you'll end up in the right place. Tel Aviv is not like that. It's a jungle for a girl like me, who comes from a "city" with a population of a bit over 100.000 people.
Next up is Jerusalem for a few days, before I head back to Iceland next Monday. It feels strange to be planning a trip leading away from Israel, somehow. Is that a silly thought, or is it just me..
Shalom everybody!
I hope everybody is feeling as good as I am. It is simply so wonderful to be surrounded by such amazing friends that I rarely get to see, in a place that I love that I rarely get to visit.
I have just had a lovely Shabbat. Yesterday I spent a large part of the day playing with my friend's 4 year old little daughter, Navah. I have completely fallen in love with her. At first she was very shy and didn't want anything to do with me, but bit by bit she came to and we became very good friends. She is just like my niece Gudrun, only younger, browneyed instead of blueeyed, and speaks Hebrew all the time, instead of Icelandic. The last bit has forced me to speak Hebrew. A child doesn't understand that somebody might not have spoken Hebrew for a long time, or might have limited knowledge or understanding. She constantly asks me questions and demands answers, or she does things that necessitate comments, so I have to speak Hebrew. Last night when I was cuddling with her she said the cutest thing to me. She said: "You are not my mother, but you are like another mom". Then she asked "do you have a little girl?". I said no. Then she said: "Do you have a little girl like me in America?". That was so adoreble! Her mother is originally from America, so she hears us speak English, and I sound just like an American when I talk, so of course the 4 year old child would assume that I come from America. It was just a charming little question "do you have a little girl like me in America". Then she wanted me to read her story books. Matters got complicated when she got children's books in Hebrew. Like most of you probably realise, people who are inexperienced when it comes to Hebrew (such as I am), read Hebrew slowly and with difficulty. But she insisted I'd read it. So I read it! And she was very pleased. She then got a children's book in German (that her mother uses to teach her Yiddish). I don't know any German, so that's harder. The book had photos of all kinds of objects: Food, garden tools, clothes, everything. She kept asking "ma ze, ma ze? (what is it). If I told her I didn't know the word for a particular item, she told it to me. If I made a mistake, she corrected me and quietly moved on. She conscientiously went through the entire book! So I got a Hebrew lesson from an adore little 4 year old Israeli girl. How sweet is that?
I have actually had several funny incidents with Hebrew already. My Hebrew is FAR from what it used to be, but it's very easy to learn a language that you have once known. For instance, I might not remember the word for something, but if somebody says it to me, I'll understand, and then I'll remember it again. The other day for example, I got into a conversation with a female security guard in Jerusalem. She was going through my things and she saw I had bought a book with Hebrew verb tables. I'm nervous to speak Hebrew, so I addressed her in English. She saw my book, smiled and said: "Ahh, ba'ulpan at lomedet?" (You study at ulpan?). So I think to myself: What the heck, I might as well speak Hebrew... I've had similar experiences when people ask me questions. My first reaction is to get nervous and think that perhaps I should just say that I don't speak Hebrew. Then I realise that I know exactly what they're saying, and what to answer, so I might as well answer. If the conversation were to get long and complex I would end up having problems though, since my Hebrew is limited.
Next week is quite booked. Tomorrow I intend to take a trip to the north, to visit the city of Tzfat. If anybody reading this has not been to Tzfat, I definitely recommend it. It is absolutely amazing. Monday is Tel Aviv day, and after that Jerusalem for several days.
